Crystal Clear Water Surrounds You
It’s the calm before the storm. You sit there on your board, waiting for that one wave to come. No matter how many times you paddle out, you always want one more wave, one more fix. The swells get bigger and bigger as the morning carries on. You only have time for one more set before you have to paddle back to shore and start your day.
You see other surfers already heading in, but you feel it; there’s another set coming, and it’s the one you’ve been waiting all day for. The energy in the water picks up around you, and it’s time to start paddling. The water starts to pull your board backwards, and as it levels out, you jump up into position and cut to the inside.
The wave itself is one of the biggest of the day, and as you ride the inside, hand reaching out to feel the wall of water next you, relaxation sets in. The wave curls around you, encapsulating you in the pipeline. It’s the calm before the storm.
You know you have to make it through the opening or feel the wave crash down on you. The clear, blue water entrances you, much like it has every morning you paddle out. But this time, this time you know the experience is different. You know you’re going to get through; you feel yourself being pushed through that sliver of an opening. And as that wave breaks behind you, that breath you’ve been holding in is finally released.
Your mind blanks as the air escapes your lips. You want to relive that moment over and over again. It’s like your first wave all over again. It’s time to paddle back to shore and start the day. You carry your board back to your car, quickly change, and load up your gear. You can’t wait to watch the morning’s run, but you jump to the last wave, hoping to capture that feeling just one more time before reality sets back in.
It’s moments like these that you’re glad you mounted your Monster Digital camera to the front of your board.